Entanglements Full of Flavors

Yu Ding Shing, a traditional soy sauce workshop with over 60 years of history, has been passed down from grandfather to father and now to the hands of two brothers, Hsieh Yi-Cheng and Hsieh Yi-Che. Their journey writes a legendary chapter in the story of artisan craftsmanship, inheriting not only technique but also a deep cultural sentiment.

Using locally grown black beans and time-honored brewing techniques passed down through generations, Yu Ding Shing ensures that every batch of soy sauce embodies the essence of their artistry. Every step—carefully selecting black soybeans according to the seasons, delicately handcrafting koji, adapting to seasonal changes to nurture the growth of koji mold, relying on ample sunlight to balance the aroma, mastering the fire control of wood-burning stoves, and maintaining reverence and discipline when cooking in large cauldrons—reflects their dedication and commitment to excellence.

Since 2015, they have partnered with a farmer in Taoyuan for black bean cultivation, with half of their raw materials sourced from Taiwan and the other half imported. At the same time, they continue to explore unique flavor profiles by incorporating black beans from different regions across Taiwan. These include native tea beans from Yilan, naturally farmed black beans from the fertile fields of Changhua, and coastal black beans from Yunlin, nurtured by the sea breeze. Each bean carries the story of the land it comes from, adding depth and soul to every drop of soy sauce.

The soy sauce makers’ heartfelt approach—pouring their emotions into every step of the process—transforms cultural inheritance into a powerful exchange of emotions, rather than a mere continuation of skills. In the solitude of crafting soy sauce, these artisans are able to find a level of concentration that allows them to create the finest products. Over time, they continue to develop a variety of unique soy sauce flavors, merging tradition with innovation.

A wooden signboard put in place by the third generation of Yu Ding Shing.

Large terracotta jars of soy sauce line the yard outside, fermenting under the sun. The varying colors and patterns on the jars indicate the different generations who have acquired them.

While preserving traditional craftsmanship,Yu Ding Shing keenly addresses the challenges of modern society; by blending cultural heritage with ecological wisdom, they raise awareness of local environmental issues, which are at the heart of their values.

Through the Future Dining Table initiative, Yu Ding Shing weaves together local culture, stories, and ingredients to create immersive dining experiences that offer visitors a deeper understanding of Yunlin. More than just a feast for the taste buds, this initiative encourages people to make conscious food choices, fostering a stronger connection between individuals and their meals, while also reshaping perceptions of Yunlin.

The Future Dining Table is not only a dining experience but a thoughtfully curated cultural journey co-created with local youth and brands. In Kouhu, for example, they collaborate with young community leaders to guide participants through Chenglong Wetlands, where breathtaking natural scenery unfolds alongside an important environmental narrative. Through guided tours, visitors learn that this wetland was formed due to excessive groundwater extraction, which led to seawater intrusion— inadvertently forming this human-induced aquatic wonder. By showing that local identity is inextricably intertwined with the memories of the land, these innovative practices not only preserve local characteristics but also align with modern concerns for environmental conservation and regeneration, serving as an inspiring model for the symbiotic relationship of culture and nature.

Donna Cleveland, a professor originally from New Zealand, engaging in the wood-firing process of soy sauce brewing.

The story of Yu Ding Shing exemplifies how the integrity and warmth of communal relations in past generations can be interwoven with sustainable practices. By collaborating with local farmers and producers, they revive the communal spirit of early Taiwanese villages—where neighbors would visit each other, offer support, and share kindness—fostering a sense of belonging that harmonizes with both ecology and culture.

Since 2022, they have been co-creating immersive tours with producers and partners, traveling across Yunlin’s small towns to curate unique dining experiences that showcase the essence and character of each place. These journeys serve as a bridge between people, food, and the land, evoking a time when immediate and caring communal relationships defined daily life.

During a recent visit, we spoke with Yi-Cheng about the short-term vision for the next three years of the Future Dining Table. He shared, “We hope to spend more time exploring the yet-to-be-visited villages of Yunlin, seeking out new producers and seasonal ingredients. We aim to document these experiences in writing so that the stories of the land and its people can reach a wider audience. The eight years of our journey (2017-2025) will also be compiled into a dedicated cookbook—not just to preserve the essence of our experiences, but to express our belief in the symbiotic relationship between food, culture, and the environment.

“Furthermore, we aspire to take this deep-rooted connection beyond Taiwan’s borders by organizing an overseas dining and exhibition project. Through food, we hope to share the realization that eating is not just about taste—it is a promise of sustainability, a commitment to respecting nature. ”

Participants experienced the Future Dining Table during the tour, where Yu Ding Shing’s black bean soy sauce ties together local produce into hearty vegetarian dishes in collaboration with producers and cooks.